Water-Based Cleaner For Couch

THREE Super Effective DIY's for Everyone's Wallet. Save $$$, and Still Get Steam Clean Results Without Getting Steamed.
Just because you want to choose a DIY project to tackle doesn't automatically mean you can't afford the "real McCoy" or that you're obsessed with the DIY fad of late. Shake off all the naysayers and DIY because you WANT to. Or at least try before you buy. You wouldn't sign a car lease or loan without a test drive, would you? Water-based self-sofa cleaning might just be what you need at the right time for you. Sometimes life has a way of falling into step, so I say, "if you are lucky enough to hit that stride, take advantage of it and DIY with pride!"
THREE Super Effective DIY's for Everyone's Wallet. Save $$$, and Still Get Steam Clean Results Without Getting Steamed.
Just because you want to choose a DIY project to tackle doesn't automatically mean you can't afford the "real McCoy" or that you're obsessed with the DIY fad of late. Shake off all the naysayers and DIY because you WANT to. Or at least try before you buy. You wouldn't sign a car lease or loan without a test drive, would you? Water-based self-sofa cleaning might just be what you need at the right time for you. Sometimes life has a way of falling into step, so I say, "if you are lucky enough to hit that stride, take advantage of it and DIY with pride!"
Break the Code.
The only somewhat tricky step to a DIY cleaning your couch with a water-based cleaner is learning the manufacturer's code guideline. And that begins with finding it. Now, here's where the fun begins, especially if you've been procrastinating. The code tags are under the couch cushions. I repeat, the code tags are under the couch cushions. Don't be alarmed if your teenage boy comes ramping down the stairs and furiously LEAPS upon his missing video game controller and scatters an assortment of loose coins on the floor. Your partner or S/O will claim those and the dog will sit back and wriggle with a gentle whine until you allow him to snarf up some potato chip crumbles and a half-eaten PB and j. OK, the code is:
- W = Water or Water-Based Cleaning Only.
- S = Solvent-Based Solutions are Safe.
- W/S or S/W = Both Water AND Solvents are acceptable.
- X = NEITHER are Safe. Dry-Clean or Professionally Clean ONLY.
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That's it. In a nutshell. Don't waver from these letters. No matter how experienced you are with DIY projects, a slip up could mean the difference between a slipcover or a void warranty and the high cost of replacing your couch.
- Assuming you are a true DIY enthusiast, you understand the reality of an initial appliance like a portable ultra-compact stain removal machine may be in the near future if this is a chore to be added to the list of occurring more than once a year. Generally found for under $100.00, it could be a great payback for your living situation. It's a couch. Or a sofa bed, or an armchair or dining room chair. It could even be a car seat, pet bed or carpeted steps. Think of a time when none of these have been free of grime, odor, accidental drink spill, muddy foot-print or bloody knee. Onions lingering in the fabric trapped in by natural body oil, cooking grease and time.
- A DIY'ers pantheon of grimoire ingredients should include:
- Water. Distilled if possible.
- Clean, white towels, cloths or even paper toweling in a pinch.
- Soft bristled scrub brush.
- Essential oils if you want to create your own "scented" cleaner.
- A spray bottle with an adjustable mister spritz nozzle tip.
- Baking soda or an oxide powder alternate
- Dish detergent. (a few drops go a long way)
- Rubbing alcohol OR peroxide to attack exceptionally stubborn set-in stains.

BONUS TIP: do NOT mix peroxide with baking soda in a bottle.
Those are the main ingredients you'll need. If you are concerned about dry time, it is recommended that you use a fan and not heat as anything left behind will just get baked back into the upholstery fabric. The best ratio is one half spray bottle, any size, to equal amounts of everything else except what is flagged above as to more specified additions. So, give it a whirl! Spray and dab with the towel, taking care not to saturate or rub to begin with. Sometimes this method is all you need. If a second pass is required, use the brush with a mild to mid pressure; again, take precautions with any water cleaning on acceptable types of leather.
Start with laying out your ground cover and a quick spray with the pressure washer to loosen any dirt on the furniture. While gloved and masked, gently go over with the brush dipped in a bucket of warm water solution of a few capfuls of bleach to kill any unseen lingering mold. Finish with another spray rinse and let the pieces dry thoroughly.
Mr. Sandman, yes? Make it pristine!
Next comes the most time-consuming part of the process. Don’t rush into it. The furniture MUST be completely dry before sanding and depending on the wear and tear may need extra time but the results will be stunning. Follow the basic nitty grittier of sanding:
- Find the grain and go WITH it. NEVER cross-sand. It will leave scratches and gouges.
- Make smooth over lapping passes, checking on the grind of paper from time to time, replacing it when required.
- DON’T throw all your weight behind the sander. Remember…you’re looking for smooth and silky.
- When you’re satisfied with the quality of the sanding, brush away excess sawdust with a dry rag, brush or even a pass of your leaf blower.
- Finish with a third wash rinse from the hose sprayer and let dry at least overnight.
- Take a couple of Aleve or Advil to release the knots in your shoulders and vibrating pain in your wrists…and look forward to the morning. **tongue in cheek of course. If anything, enjoy a cocktail. You’ve earned it**
Teak your time. It’s all in the finish.
Good morning handy people and welcome to day 2 of Cleaning and Restoring Teak Furniture. Today you will see the fruits of your labor outshine your greatest expectations. Start with your now freshly sanded and DRY pieces on your tarp. Brush away any residual dust or dirt cling-ons and with gloved hands, protected eyes, clean lint free rags and away from direct sunlight if possible, apply the linseed oil to first your rag then onto your furniture, again, following the grain, massaging it into the wood until absorbed. Keeping in mind that this will be a two coated step, by the time you’ve finished one coat you can begin the second coat almost immediately after. You’ll be amazed at the richness of the finish as the linseed works with the teak’s natural oil to produce that deep golden rich luster.
The Great Indoors.
Weather it’s a floor, a bed frame, that salad bowl that’s been on top of the kitchen cabinet for years, general maintenance is much easier and is fait d’accompli with a basic dusting, mild washing and light linseed oiling when needed. ( usually every two months is sufficient for oiling and polishing ) If your bathroom has teak accents like flooring, accessories or even a shower stall or attached steam room, a mildew check from time to time is worth the dime to take care of with a quick brush of bleach water and multi rinsing is all that is needed.
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Still In Doubt? Give A Shout!
One of the hardest choices to make when tackling a cleaning chore when you are unsure is deciding whether you should call in a professional service OR having no fear of moving ahead in your own stride. Whatever path you choose, know that any professional service center will be there beside you, to walk you through any DIY questions you may have or to step in where you may fear to tread. Either way, at the end of the day, you’ll be thrilled with the results. And somewhere, a lone sock has been reunited with it's clan.

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